Yolanda is one of the cornerstone figures of Spanish Wine Lover, Spain’s most important and comprehensive wine portal. Recently, we had the pleasure of interviewing her on the occasion of her participation in the Spanish Wine Educator course we organized for ICEX.
During this course, Yolanda surprised us again with a lecture that included a tasting of Atlantic-style Spanish wines, showcasing her passion and profound knowledge of wine in general, and this style in particular.
Yolanda, thank you so much for taking the time to chat with us. Let’s start with a big topic—the general public. Would wine exist without them?
The general public buys most of the wine produced worldwide. They should never be underestimated or undervalued, but the industry also shouldn't forget that there are curious consumers willing to pay for quality wines from diverse regions, producers, and styles.
In your opinion, how can we bring people closer to wine?
In a country with such an intense social life like this one, I think more training and interest among hospitality professionals would help. You don’t need a chalkboard with dozens of references, just a handful of varied and honest wines—even from a tap—served at the right temperature and that suit the venue’s profile and food style.
Perhaps if, at a beach bar or neighborhood tavern, you could choose between an ancestral wine, a manzanilla, a couple of fresh, easy-drinking whites and reds, and a vermouth, fewer people would opt for beer.
A very concrete and practical vision: simplify and choose well. What would you say are the infallible characteristics of a successful wine?
Quality. The quality of the wine should always be the essential and non-negotiable element.
Speaking of quality, and going further, how much do talent, vintage, and experience influence a wine?
I think the fundamental element is the terroir it comes from, especially the person behind it. How many great vineyards have gone unnoticed until someone came along who knew how to interpret that terroir with all its nuances, including the different variables of each vintage? Of course, experience is always an added value.
Completely agree—great terroirs for great wines. What about trends? Super-premium wine or mass-market wine?
Here, my answer is going to be “it depends,” as we say in Galicia. The moment and context in which you drink the wine are fundamental. On a summer terrace with friends, I think a glou-glou wine can be much more enjoyable than a super-premium one. Quality and quantity don’t always clash: Dom Pérignon produces five million bottles a year and is a legendary brand.
We loved the mention of “glou-glou.” Another “glou-glou” topic in the industry is bulk wine. What’s your take on it?
Like it or not, Spain remains a bulk wine powerhouse. According to data from the Spanish Wine Market Observatory, in 2023, we exported 1.146 billion liters at an average price of €0.45/liter, while bottled wine exports amounted to 879 million liters. But not all bulk wine is low quality, and that’s where we need to work to change perceptions. Places like La Caníbal in Madrid, which serves artisanal wine on tap and has modernized the concept of a neighborhood wine shop, seem wonderful to me. They also help bring wine closer to people.
Absolutely. A shoutout to our friends at La Caníbal and the Observatory. Now, a practical question: why don’t we make more magnums?
That’s a good question. They evolve better, make great gifts, and are the perfect size for sharing at a barbecue with friends or a family meal. However, to store magnums, you need a proper cellar, as most climate-controlled cabinets that fit in typical homes are designed for 75cl bottles.
We’ll find the magnum cabinet! But back to the consumer: from your perspective, what is essential for a wine amateur to know?
I think the essential thing is to have passion and curiosity. In wine, you never stop learning. Personally, I’d love to have time to do the WSET Level 4 at my own pace. Maybe when I retire!
The WSET Level 4 Diploma is a marvel. But it’s almost the end of the journey. Looking back to the beginning, what’s your earliest memory of wine?
In the 70s and 80s, Villabuena was always known as one of the towns with the best homemade wines in Rioja. From Vitoria, my city, it’s not far, so I remember the occasional excursions to Villabuena with my parents and siblings when I was a child and the unmistakable smell of the cellars.
I also remember that on special occasions, my parents would let us drink a glass of soda with a splash of wine. Now it would be unthinkable (not because of the soda, haha, but because of the wine), but I loved it. It made me feel grown-up.
That’s truly evocative. We could talk about wine for hours—and read about it, as there’s more and more on the subject. You, who we know are an avid reader, what would you recommend?
One of my favorite books is How to Love Wine by Eric Asimov, whose columns in The New York Times I also recommend. He conveys knowledge with sensitivity and writes with an ease and naturalness I envy. Tasting Victory, the biography of Gerard Basset, one of the world’s most influential sommeliers, is truly inspiring. I also enjoyed reading Understanding Wine by Pedro Ballesteros, and now I’m learning a lot from One Thousand Vines by Pascaline Lepeltier, a sort of modern encyclopedia on the vine and wine, and an essential read for delving deeper and consolidating knowledge.
For reports and chronicles about wines worldwide, jancisrobinson.com is a very useful tool, including the Oxford Companion to Wine. For Spanish wine, I’ll be biased and recommend Spanish Wine Lover, which is an independent website with content written with a lot of passion and care.
Great, we have homework (and gift ideas for the season). On the retail front, where do you buy wine? Would you share with us what do you buy?
In specialized shops, both online and physical, and through distributors. I find it hard to come across wines in supermarkets that spark my curiosity.I buy a bit of everything because I like discovering new wines, new vintages, producers I don’t know, rescued grape varieties, or delving into diverse regions and styles. But there are three areas I keep returning to: Jerez, Galicia, and Champagne.
Let’s tackle another hot topic. Do you think today there are too many winemakers seeking fame and recognition?
I think there’s a new generation of producers who are educated, well-traveled, and multilingual, unafraid to go out into the world and share their territories, traditions, grape varieties, and stories. I think this is a good thing for showcasing the incredible diversity of Spanish wine today.
The current moment is fantastic for everyone. Any final reflections you’d like to share?
A reminder: wine has been associated with pleasure, fun, friendship, and good times for thousands of years. I hope it stays that way for many millennia to come.
So do we, Yolanda. Thank you for this opportunity, and we’re sure we’ll toast together again soon. Many thanks for your warmth and for sharing clear and motivating ideas with our #winestudents. By the way, get ready for the Diploma; we’ll be releasing new dates soon. Cheers!
The Wine Studio team
